The Cook Islands are an idyllic honeymoon locale for relaxation and romance but once you have lounged on the beach and let the island breeze carry your tensions away, adventure and culture also await, along with the memorable Cook Islanders who guide the way.

Jungle Treks and Hidden Secrets

On Rarotonga, the largest of the islands, we are staying at a wonderful little boutique resort, The Little Polynesian. By our second day we’re ready to head out and explore the island. All of the Cooks are volcanic in origin and at the centre of Rarotonga, surrounded by dense jungle is Te Rua Manga, an ancient volcanic core and one of the highest peaks on the island. Our enigmatic guide, Pa, is a legendary figure of the Islands respected for his Polynesian prowess, wisdom and deep respect for his land and heritage. At 62 years old he has made this trek barefoot through the jungle over 3,000 times. His shoulder-length bleach blond dreadlocks and reputation for  amazing physical exploits, including epic sea voyages in Polynesian outriggers and swimming the 36-plus kilometres around his home island, make him a credible guide. Wrapped in a simple, patterned pareu, Pa and his sturdy bare feet guides our small group through the jungle.

The Summit Trail

Along the way, he keeps up a roaming dialogue that ranges from tales of island history and Polynesian lore to the medicinal properties of the jungle plants at our feet. And just to keep it fun, he shares a few “stupid tourist” tories from his deep well of tales. The trail up is winding and steep, with only occasional glimpses of our surroundings through the dense bush as we gain elevation. When we stop at a small clearing, the beauty of the view is breathtaking. The glittering turquoise ocean stretches vast to the horizon; lush palms and enormous jungle trees create a thick, rippling canopy over the island’s surface below, long tailed White Terns soar across the valley. The summit itself is considered inaccessible without ropes. We take group photos under the watchful gaze of an ancient god carved into the volcanic face. On the way down our trail ends at the base of a waterfall and we waste no time plunging into the shallow pool. The pure, cold water is refreshing and the intimate spot uniquely romantic.

Highland Paradise Cultural Centre

On another morning, we opt for a less active adventure, but one just as culturally stimulating. High on Mount Maungaroa is the Highland Paradise Cultural Centre. Here, we explore the land of the Tinomana tribe, who, at the beginning of Cook Island’s history, were the ruling tribe over Rarotonga. We are warmly greeted by Tutu Pirangi, a descendant of the tribe who, taking over from her father, has committed her time and energy to preserving the land and sharing the history of her ancestors. After introducing herself and sharing a brief multimedia video about the tribe’s history, Tutu excuses herself to help prepare what will be a hearty afternoon lunch. We follow our guide Danny, who, dressed in traditional woven grass garb, leads us over the meticulous grounds, landscaped with various fruit trees and a carpet of large-bladed island grass. At one stop, Danny melodically recites a prayer to the god Tangaroa, and we sit on a log with our eyes closed, almost entranced by the rhythmic baritone of his recital. We also stop at a reconstruction of the tribe leader’s ares, a simple structure with a thatched roof and woven walls that would have housed him and his family.  A four-foot tall wooden Tangaroa stands just inside the entrance to ward off harm. We learn that much warring occurred between tribes all over the island but when the Tinomana chief converted to Christianity during the arrival of the first Christian missionaries, warring significantly decreased and the tribe slowly migrated down into the coastal areas of the island.

Our stay in the Cooks was tropical bliss, but it was also richly coloured by the Islanders we met, their individual and collective stories, and their passion for preserving their history and culture through sharing it with visitors.

If You Go:

Both a hike up Te Rua Manga and a visit to Highland Paradise can be organized through your accommodations or through the Cook Islands Tourism board located in Avarau, Rarotonga’s main town.
www.cookislands.travel

Highland Paradise:
www.highlandparadise.co.ck